Quite the Pair: The Terrace View at CityGarden

THE DISH

Summer squash and Serrano with poached eggs and Taleggio béchamel, $12

Brunch is quite possibly my favorite meal. The options are endless. You can enjoy both savory and sweet items at once. Pair all of that with a sleek restaurant of floor-to-ceiling windows and a patio that overlooks one of downtown St. Louis' newest and most scenic attractions – CityGarden – and you have the perfect Sunday morning.

The Terrace View prides itself on using items from local growers and suppliers, and it shows. The menu reflects an array of both traditional and unique selections that are comprised of local meats and produce. The summer squash and Serrano dish is presented beautifully with the squash cut in french fry-like strips which are then wrapped in the dry-cured Spanish ham. Drizzled atop and on the plate is béchamel, a traditional white sauce that has been elevated with the addition of Tellagio, a pungent yet mild Italian cheese. Two perfectly poached eggs finish the dish. As for the wine list, there is a selection of sparkling wines by the glass, but your white and red options are offered either "by the quartino" (about a third of a bottle) or by the full bottle.

THE WINES

NV Castillo Peralada Blanc Pescador, $10 by the quartino

There are few wines I consider a staple at brunch with the exception of sparkling. This white wine satisfies my love of enjoying bubbles with eggs. A racy and fruity choice that gives your taste buds a bouncy effervescence in the finish, it lightens up this somewhat heavy dish with vivid aromas of citrus and a refreshing acidity that balances well with the creamy eggs and Taleggio-béchamel sauce. Lovely as an appertif or paired with food, this wine could also add a fantastic twist to a fun brunch cocktail, such as a Kir Royale.

2007 Domaine Pernot Bourgogne Blanc, France, $16 by the quartino

This wine is everything a white Burgundy should be. It exhibits the pure fruit of the Chardonnay grape while continuing to reveal layers of stone, earth, grass, steel and herbs. Enjoy the aromas and flavors of lemon custard, figs and apple. This is an easy-drinking wine yet it maintains a complexity that is fit for food pairing. Because it is not overly fruity, the superb savory quality of the dish is preserved, and, in fact, uplifted by the hints of floral and minerals of the wine. I especially enjoyed the combination of the wine with the Serrano ham, a playful experience of sweetness from both the wine and the food.

2009 Domaine de la Solitude Côtes-du-Rhône Rosé, France, $13 by the quartino

If you are fortunate to visit The Terrace View on a gorgeous, breezy day, I suggest dining on the patio with a glass of bone-dry rosé. This bright wine can certainly set the tone to not only your meal, but also your whole day. Deep aromas of wild berries and grapefruit fill the glass. Do not expect sweetness as you sip this blend of Grenache, Carignane, Syrah and Cinsault. It delivers a round, soft, dry finesse. When paired, the wine yields a spiciness that brings out an unexpected intensity in the food. The pronounced tang of the Tellagio began to stand out on its own. The summer squash also exuded a new level of earthiness that had not been detected with the other pairings. This is yet another example of how a wine can bring out hidden treasures in an otherwise straightforward dish.

The Terrace View at CityGarden, 808 Chestnut St., Downtown, 314.436.8855